Yohji Yamamoto

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Perhaps, Yohji Yamamoto's AW09 collection's main goal was to playfully reveal the hidden, to shift the focus onto the unseen, making the ordinary seem surprising. This time the backsides of garments were in the spotlight: whether it was a boring blazer turned inside-out, splashes of pink used amidst the designer's signature blacks and greys or skillfully employed layering formalwear and sports apparel became a perfect match. The runway saw models draped in heavy knitwear, reversed topcoats in a vivid color scheme, boxing shorts with prints illustrating predator animals, and stripped silk pajamas fitted with long overcoats in order to create a casual image of a Parisian who went out to the local bakery. Additionally, there were traditional strict suits and gabardine wool coats worn over graphic sweaters, some of which portrayed the silhouette of the famous "Manneken Pis" statue wearing a brimmed hat — a reference to Yamamoto's style.

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