Saint Laurent

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Anthony Vacarello’s Winter 2023 collection for YSL builds upon Yves Saint Laurent’s pioneering work of the 1960s and 70s by swapping the conventions of gendered clothing. Combined with his women's collection of the same season, Vacarello’s goal became for the two genders to have no distinction. The collection features cowl neck silk shirts sinking into a wrapped cumberbund, oversized bows on the neckline, and long, narrow black coats, exhibiting the convergence of male and female clothing conventions and the well-cut elegance of Vacarello’s designs. The softer silhouettes of the men's collection played off the sharp and exaggerated lines of the women’s collection of the same season, further enforcing Vacarello’s goal of two genders on one level. Throughout the collection though, exudes the classic YSL decadence, reminiscent of the brand’s Tom Ford era. The precise tailoring and elegant silhouette remain true to the brand's original ethos while calling back to Yves Saint Laurents's history of taking male design conventions and co-opting them for women's clothing.

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