Helmut Lang

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Helmut Lang’s introduction into fashion was akin to many menswear aficionados of late, as he took an interest in the garments worn by the stylish residents of Vienna. He admired them and wanted to explore this medium for himself. He has often been labeled as a minimalist, as he followed the modernistic architecture principle of “form follows function” religiously. He reimagined otherwise mundane clothing articles through precise alternations that ultimately transformed them into stylish wearable garments, unheard of at the time in menswear. His opus retrospectively displays a constant dialogue between the consumer and the product, as his pieces vary from those everyday pairs of jeans to gaudy sequin parkas for costuming.

Many of his design decisions centered around utilitarianism. Rationality and functionality were in priority before form making. Many of his most emblematic pieces center around three motifs – straps, stripes, and subtraction. Innovations in orthopedic therapy corsets mixed with Austria’s booming club-culture inspired Helmut’s various harnessing experiments. This specific motif creates a conversation between the wearer and the garment. From the straps around the cuffs of a sensually sliming long sleeve to the harness system built into a military-inspired parka, this motif prompts the wearer to “strap in.”

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