Christian Dior

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Galliano is both a creative madman and one of the last great couturiers – though perhaps those are not mutually exclusive terms. At Dior and Givenchy, he made ridiculous clothes because fashion had the economic freedom (million dollar runways) to indulge his brand of mental largesse. Whether that’s the same for designers today is unlikely. During his AW03 show, Galliano made alien showgirls, gypsies, and cabaret floozies terrestrial. If they weren’t painted in blue and yellow gradients by Pat McGrath, they were swarthy, muddied, and sweat-slicked. The collection was an apocalyptic travelogue through dance culture, as feisty bailarinas de flamenco stomped the runway in flounced skirts, corsetry, and form-fitting jackets, as he transformed leggings and leg warmers into ballroom ruffles. The whole thing was in homage to his Gibraltan father, who passed away a week before. “We danced flamenco at his funeral,” Galliano said. “It’s important to remember where we came from.”

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