Patch Button Shirt
SS2000 "Gobelin"



Tapestry, a large, heavy woven piece of fabric typically used as decoration for walls or floors, was of focus for Kawakubo and her Spring/Summer 2000 “Gobelin” collection for the label’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus line. Rich with intricacy and regarded as “the best French decorative art has to offer”, Gobelin tapestry was largely supplied to French royalty and other members of the elite during the 17th century. These handwoven products get their name from the family of cloth makers and dyers credited with creating what is today the Gobelin Tapestry Factory in Paris, France. A figure worth noting is Jehan Gobelin (1410-1476), whose discovery of a scarlet dye and desire for its promotion prompted the foundation of a legacy.


Good condition. Please see photos for full evaluation.


Size 48


This legacy, continuing from the mid-1600s and well into the 21st century, could be defined initially as a collaboration of commissioned French designers, whose depiction of animals (Jean-Baptiste Oudry) and Rococo style paintings contributed to a larger whole; the grandeur of Gobelin tapestry. However, with the progression of time, came a transformation into a more familiar, modern image; abstract art and surrealism dominate the construction of design and imagery.

The shift towards modernism was intriguing to Kawakubo, as it is apparent in the collection’s title and designs presented on the runway. Notable designs from this collection share a common theme of patched Gobelin tapestry, muddled with floral motifs and reconstructed with exposed, asymmetrical stitching. A patchwork suit jacket from this S/S 2000 collection fetches a hefty price on secondary markets as of recent times. Rigid lapels rest upon the collarbone in lush hue of yellow, soft blue with white roses, or a greyscale of intricate leaves. The position and cut of each patch, material composition of the tapestry, and lastly the design on each patch, all rely on the type of item and simply the item itself. After an examination of multiple, “identical” jackets from the multiple collections, it became clear to me how such subtle detail can translate to such substantial differences in the eye of the beholder.  Attention was not devoted primarily to how the garment fits upon the wearer, as much as to how the garment will endure her design process.

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