After his debut at Jil Sander, Raf Simons made it his mission to demonstrate the ambition he had retained to create clothes that are his own. His 2006 – 2007 Autumn Winter collection showed just that. While synth-pop and underground techno tracks played in the background a convoy of models embellished in slim trousers and towering tops sauntered the runway. There was a clear emphasis on the vivacious stature of his outerwear. Focused on a palette of black, white, and gray, these new wave garments included slick-single button suits, intricate double-layered down jackets, and coats adorned by exuberant Dracula-esque collars. Oversized silhouettes helped frame the faces of models, in essence highlighting their youth, a common motif in Simons’ work. Having redefined contemporary menswear, Simons was looking to obtain cult status. La Defence is recognized by many as the end of Raf’s archive era.

Written by Leonardo Hurtado