Junya Watanabe’s Spring / Summer 2003 collection sparked the attention of the fashion elite in Japan, who scrutinized his work for not aligning with precedented minimal and monotone visual aesthetic. "It is Scarlett O'Hara meets A Clockwork Orange… Fashion is meant to advance the notion of what fashion is. And he does.” said Gene Krell – the international fashion director for Vogue Japan. The bondage harnesses on polyvinyl silhouettes that are cut with unraveling hems and rough seams pick up where Vivienne Westwood left off. This was a period when his garments were considered unisex, and before the introduction of “Man.” The models utilized their own garments’ hardware to distort their figures in ways that only the futuristic nylon materiality could offer. When asked about the mixing and matching of ornamentation, references, and aesthetics, Junya reportedly shrugged and said, "I do not follow rules."