Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall 2009 RTW collection captivated models with masculine-looking white shirts, malformed, and had a perfect drape on the body. Slouchy black jackets, asymmetrical high-waisted trousers, and aggressive military combat boots, worn with stiff black leather corsets, which were the focal point of many of the garments, the upper straps buckled around the torso. Demeulemeester stated that she wanted to change up the traditional corset. “I wanted something to give women more of a masculine shape,” she said. Exaggerated silhouettes and cuts are done in a moody, monochromatic way—the usual black and white color palette sustains a robust poetic affinity. Ann’s effortless design signifies an underlying identity. Her tailoring is infamous for being the finest. Each garment exudes a somewhat punk gothic attitude. The dress-like garments blurred the line between the sexes, worn with Edwardian jackets. The clothes themselves are fluid and androgynous. These shapes reappeared throughout the collection; Ann seems to always combine gothic references with the elegance of minimalism, showcasing clean tailoring with romantic detailing. Ann’s garments are not one size fits all aesthetics, and it would be a shame if they ever became that way, because honestly, this is what is most potent about her and the brand.

Written by Liaba Yasir