When she was just 16 years old, the Belgian designer had discovered Patti Smith hearing Patti’s album horses as a teen struck a sense of influence. The combination of Smith’s androgynous and punk attitude was Demeulemeester’s primary influence in building her collection from an androgynous perspective. Ann stated, “Smith’s work was done for those who wanted in, the poets, and the punks.” In past collections, Ann’s long term influence with Smith led her to put models on the catwalk in outfits resembling the cover of Horses - (S/S 97). However, for the FW06 Men’s collection, Patti herself happened to be in Paris. The woman who had played such a significant influence for Ann happened to finally take the catwalk, playing the clarinet as she walked down, wearing a droopy elongated jacket, a fringed scarf with a sinuous cling, and a bowler hat. The other models had corpse-like features with sleek rocker hair, flowing from the bowler hats’ brim, which brought the edge we’re used to seeing in Ann’s collections. Cutting edge silver-metallic trench coats and blazers, with printed scarves draping along the neck. The color palette was different from the usual black and white. It was earthy, moody, and had beautiful metallics, fitting into the austere yet romantic universe of Ann Demeulemeester. There were silver leather trousers, boots, double-breasted jackets, and an alpaca coat. A specific stand out piece, which had the quote “What remains is future,” printed across. Meaning there is new energy coming, but it is unknown. Ann always brings extreme elegance between her love with fashion, poetry, and romanticism. She was cultivating collections that tell an intimate story. Her passion for music is deeply represented in her runway soundtracks and collections.

Written by Liaba Yasir